How did fermentation shape pre-modern Arab cuisine?

Tala Bashmi & Prof. Daniel Newman

At the Food Meets Science conference in Dubai on November 5th, two important figures in the culinary world, Professor Daniel Newman and Chef Tala Bashmi, captivated the audience with their exploration of medieval Arab cooking. Daniel, a Durham University academic and food enthusiast, is passionate about recreating ancient recipes. He describes himself as a “humble recreator.” Tala is renowned for reimagining Arab cuisine with her unique creativity, offering dishes that are deeply respectful of tradition but infused with bold modern twists. Their collaboration exemplified the blending of historical culinary practices with contemporary innovation, as Daniel commended Tala’s ability to honour the essence of Arab culinary heritage while reinventing it.

“To break the rules, you must first master the foundations—whether in food, cuisine, or any other field.” Tala Bashmi

The centerpiece of their talk was murri, a once-ubiquitous fermented condiment that defined the flavors of premodern Arabic cuisine but has since vanished from contemporary recipes. Often likened to Arab garum, murri’s preparation involved fermenting ingredients like fish, herbs, and grape juice for months and straining the resulting liquid into a powerful seasoning. Historically rooted in ancient Greek garas and even further back in the Akkadian word murru, meaning bitter, murri’s history and flavor carried rich cultural significance. For centuries, it was a cornerstone of savory dishes across the Arab world, appearing in 13th-century Spanish cookbooks and 15th-century Egyptian recipes, before disappearing entirely after the medieval era.

“It is a beautiful blend of the old and the modern, bringing past and present cultures together, which I believe is what cooking is all about.” Professor Daniel Newman

The pair emphasized the sustainability of medieval Arab cuisine, where every ingredient was carefully utilized with nothing wasted, reflecting an ethos well ahead of its time. This philosophy resonated in Murri’s creation, as it made use of what was available seasonally and locally. Chef Tala and Professor Daniel highlighted murri’s versatility and its enduring appeal, despite its absence in modern kitchens. They noted that murri was strictly a savory ingredient and explored its close resemblance to soy sauce, prompting modern adaptations.

Chef Tala showcased her ingenuity by crafting three versions of instant murri, each a nod to traditional methods but adjusted for today’s palate and resources. Her creations included a vegetarian mint murri, one using leftover sourdough bread with fennel, and a seafood murri. By varying salinity and incorporating ingredients like pistachios, lime leaves, and herbs, she brought murri’s ancient essence to life in new ways. This experimentation was both practical and innovative, demonstrating Murri’s potential for modern kitchens.

The session ended on a flavorful note as guests were invited to taste these creations with crackers, experiencing the intense, complex flavors that once graced medieval Arab tables, now reimagined for today’s culinary scene. The collaboration between Professor Daniel Newman and Chef Tala Bashmi brought new life to an ancient condiment, blending historical insight with culinary creativity, and showing how the past can inspire the future of food.